|
Aboriginal Land Much
of Kakadu is aboriginal land leased back for use as a National Park. The Park
is jointly managed by the Australian Nature Conservation Agency and the traditional
owners, 10 of whom sit on the 14 member board of management. The traditional owners
still live on the land and are keen to preserve their history and sacred sites
for future generations of both Aboriginal and non Aboriginal people. About 1/3
of the park's rangers are Aboriginal. Today, three major languages are spoken
within the park - Gundjeihmi / Mayali, Kunwinjku and Jawoyn.
Ancient
Rock Art Aboriginal
culture abounds throughout the Park with some 5000 sites recorded. Kakadu is another
way of saying Gagadju, one of the main language groups in the area. Dating of
rock art indicates that Aboriginals have been here for over 50,000 years making
it one of the oldest recorded continuous occupation of a region by human beings.
The rock art
at Kakadu is the most significant example of prehistoric art in the world. Ubirr
Rock and Nourlangie Rock are the best-known art sites in the park. As you can
appreciate, there is significant rock art throughout the park and into Arnhemland.
Most of them are inaccessible to visitors, because many are still of spiritual
significance to the three hundred Gagudju and other language groups who live in
the park.Overnight treks with guided tours are available to some art sites that
have been given special clearance by the traditional owners. To visit the truly
spectacular areas you will need to take a tour with dedicated lease people. Jabiru
Township Jabiru
is modelled on suburban Canberra and built in 1982 before the park was established,
to service the workers and families of three proposed Uranium Mines. The town
is small yet well laid out and proud of its' string of tidiest town awards in
the 1990's. Tours
& Recreation
Scenic
Flights Kakadu
Air (phone: 1800 089 113) operates out of the airport at Jabiru East offering
one-hour scenic flights along the escarpment and wetlands . Scenic flights depart
regularly or on request from Cooinda Airstrip. Many of the spectacular features
of the park and the vastness of its landscapes can only be fully appreciated from
the air. This is especially true in the wet season when road access to some areas
are restricted and highlights such as Jim Jim and Twin Falls are in full flow.
In case you are wondering, landing of planes or helicopters other than at licensed
aerodromes (including food drops or the positioning of walkers) is not being allowed.
Boat tours
Tours depart regularly from Yellow
Water and the East Alligator River. Bookings are required and is one of the
best ways to see the park. Refer specific information under these locations.
4WD
tours Tours to Jim Jim and Twin Falls, Maguk and Gunlom leave from Jabiru
and Cooinda, in the Dry season (May to October) if you drive into the park by
conventional two wheel drive.
Bushwalking:
A leaflet at the Bowali Visitor Centre lists twenty five marked trails
in the park. Most are short nature trails but included are some that offer a medium
level of challenge to experienced bushwalkers (such as the twelve-kilometre Bark
Walk - a six-hour trek through Nourlangie Rock's back country). Experienced
bushwalkers can apply to Park HQ with proposed itineraries, which need to be approved
before a permit is given. Specific popular walks have been approved by traditional
owners and generally permits are issued for these areas and denied for other areas.
Allow seven days for processing permits. Operators
in Darwin organise extended bushwalks up in the escarpment.
Nth
Entrance & Sth Alligator Region
Mamukala
Wetlands Mamukala is a wetlands observation platform with well presented
information. Beautiful all year round, it is at its most dramatic in the late
Dry Season, when thousands of Magpie Geese congregate to feed. Choose from a 1km
to 3km walk to see more of the wetlands. Open all year round, entry is free.
Gungarre
Monsoon walk Gungarre Monsoon forest and billabong walk takes you through
a monsoon forest, along the edge of a billabong and finally through fringing woodlands.
View plant life and Aboriginal use of plants from the three habitats, monsoonal
vine forest, floodplain and woodland. The walk is open all year round, is 3.0km
and takes up to 1.5 hours.
Two
Mile Hole & Four Mile Hole Designated
camping areas besides two billabongs that have abundant wildlife especially late
in the dry season.
Bowali
Visitor Centre This
excellent (both in design and content) information centre displays information
from both the Gukburlerri (Aboriginal) and Guhbele (non-Aboriginal perspective).
Information includes audio visual displays, park notes and the latest information
on ranger lead walks at many of the sites. Translations are in four languages.
The complex includes a café and gift shop. Bowali
Visitor Centre should not be missed. Open: Daily 8am to 5pm. Phone: (08)
8938 1120 Admission is free.
Ranger
Uranium Mine Ranger Uranium Mine run daily tours of what is visually an
unimpressive operation. The tour itself focuses on informing visitors of the safety
and environmental measures that are in place to protect the surrounding National
Park. Open: Tours at 9.15am, 10.15am, 1.15pm & 2.30pm; Cost: $10 Phone:
08 8979 2411 East
Alligator Region East
Alligator River An attractive stretch of river, the East
Alligator River forms the boundary between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. A commercial
boat cruise is available, and a boat ramp is located both upstream and downstream
of the crossing. Boat Hire is available from the Border Store at reasonable rates.
Cruising along this stretch of river is one of the highlights of a visit to Kakadu
yet little known by mainstream tourists. Crossing
the East Alligator River at Cahills crossing is not permitted unless you have
a permit. A good reason is required. (See Northern Land Council 08 8979 2410).
If you do have a Permit, be very careful crossing this river. Despite the signs
warning of the danger including photos, every year vehicles get washed away. The
river is tidal so a few hours wait can save you much heartache. Check with border
store regarding the tides. The whole region is only accessible during the dry
because the Magela Creek floods the road on the way in. Guluyambi
Aboriginal Culture Cruise This cruise gives visitors the opportunity to
see the spectacular escarpment and rock paintings at Arnhemland's edge. Guides
on the cruise are local aboriginal people who explain some of the local customs.
The cruise gives you a chance to set foot, albeit briefly, on Arnhemland. You
are certain to see crocodiles on this cruise. Bookings recommended. A recommended
attraction. Allow: 90 mins Phone: 1800 089 113
Boat
Hire Border Store hire dinghies if you want to explore yourself and go
fishing. Well worth it, but unless you are experienced, it is advisable to take
a tour with a registered tour operator . The logs and sandbanks are not easily
negotiated in this crocodile infested river. Allow: 3 hrs to all day Phone:
08 8979 2474
Ubirr
The rock-galleries at Ubirr
are one of the world's best known collections of ancient art. The paintings illustrate
the rich food resources of the wetlands. Fish, lizards and marsupials including
the now extinct Tasmanian Tiger. The Lookout offers a beautiful view across the
East Alligator wetland especially at Sunset. Ranger talks usually correspond with
the sunset and bus tour operators are encouraged not to visit at this time. A
recommended attraction and a recommended time to visit. Bill Neidjie one of the
most famous Aboriginal people in Kakadu lives in this area and occasionally comes
up to the rock Open: 8.30 am - Sunset (1st May - 30th Nov) 2.00 pm - Sunset
(1st Dec - 30th Apr) Allow: 1 hr (2 hrs at sunset)
Bushwalking
Around East Alligator Region Four walking tracks ranging from the easy
1 km walk at Ubirr to a 8 km trip that takes approximately 3 hrs return through
escarpment along the East Alligator River. For a summary of the walks refer section
"Walking tracks in Kakadu". The 1 hr Bardedjilidji walk leads to the
rocky outcrops of Arnhemland and is one of Kakadu's best short walks. A recommended
attraction. Don't forget water and sun protection.
Nourlangie
District
Nourlangie
Rock Kakadu's
most accessible and therefore most visited site. It includes the Anbangbang Rock
Shelter, where there is evidence of occupation stretching back twenty thousand
years. The Anbangbang Gallery, nearby, depicts the dramatic figures of Nabulwinjbulwinj,
Namarrgon (the Lightning Man) and his wife Barrkinj. A 1.5 km circular walk will
take you past an ancient Aboriginal shelter and several outstanding art sites.
There is also a moderately steep climb to Gunwarddehwardde lookout, which provides
impressive views of Kakadu's escarpment and Nourlangie Rock. Open 7.30am to
5.00pm daily all year round, Cost:
entry is free. Rangers conduct guided talks of the area
Anbangbang
Billabong, Anbangbang Billabong is nearby with a picnic site and dense
carpet of lilies.
Nanguluwar
Art Site This art site is a flat 4 km, 1.5 hr walk from Nourlangie Rock.
The fact that the access road is very corrugated and doesn't get tour buses means
the art site sees fewer visitors. Nanguluwur includes images from the Contact
period when Aborigines first encountered explorers and settlers.
Nawulandja
Lookout Nawulandja Lookout looks onto the imposing hulk of Nourlangie
Rock itself, which looms over Anbangbang Billabong. During the Dry, a two-and-a-half-kilometre
track circumvents the billabong.
Gubara
Gubara or Burdulba Springs, an unsealed 13 km off the Nourlangie road, is
a string of small pools along a palm-shaded creek, itself a hot forty-minute walk
from the car park.
Warradjan
Aboriginal Cultural Centre Like the Bowali Information Centre, this centre
was recently refit by the Australian Nature Conservation Agency. The centre was
constructed to give insight into the culture of the park's traditional owners.
The building itself is circular, which is a symbol for the way the Aboriginal
people sit in a circle when having a meeting. The shape is also reminiscent of
the warradjan (pig nosed turtle) hence the name. Inside, the displays depict creation
stories when the first people laid out the land and the laws. Its
an excellent display, with crafts made by the local people as well as audio visual
displays. There is also a craft shop selling locally made items such as didgeridoos
and T-shirts Signs invite the visitor to move through the display, as a Rainbow
Serpent (creation ancestor) moves through the country. Open: daily from 8.30am
- 5pm, Cost: entry is free.
Yellow Waters Yellow Water Billabong
lies 6.5 km off the Kakadu Highway near Cooinda. A pristine environment which
supports a wonderful variety of plants, birds and animals. Boardwalks and cruises
(either 1.5 hrs or 2 hrs) are very popular providing great views of the abounding
wildlife. Open daily, however check for boardwalk access, and entry is free.
- Yellow
Water Cruises
From the car park here, a short walk leads along the edge of
the billabong, from where popular cruises (five daily; book in advance on 08/8979
0145). The early-morning cruise (2 hr; $45) catches the lagoon and wildlife at
their best: heat-of-the-day tours are thirty minutes shorter and a few dollars
cheaper.
Jim
Jim & Southern Region
Bilbilkimbi
- Graveside Gorge (4x4) A beautiful and remote part of the park that is
accessed via a difficult 4WD track. A very attractive rockhole with the opportunity
for a refreshing swim in one of the many crystal clear waterholes upstream. This
is a very remote and pristine area and much of the walking is "cross-country".
You can spend all day exploring, swimming with plenty of opportunity for bird
watching, photography or simply relaxing in this peaceful wilderness area. The
area is best explored by camping and bushwalking over a couple of days but makes
a good day trip. (Always check with the Visitors centre regarding safe places
to swim!! )
Gunlom
Plunge Pool (Waterfall Creek Falls) Not
as well known as Jim Jim and Twin Falls but Gunlom is well worth the visit. A
serene waterfall and plunge pool. Has camping facilities, fresh water, toilets
and a picnic area with fireplace.The falls don't flow all year round, the flat
land below the escarpment leads to a billabong and creek. Neither can be swum
in because of the risk of crocodiles. The park rangers clear the crocodiles out
of the main plunge pool at the end of the wet so that it can be used for swimming.
(Always check with the Visitors centre regarding safe places to swim!! ) There
is a steep path to the top of the falls revealing more plunge pools and a spectacular
view of the Arnhemland Escarpment. Open: From April to November, Cost:
Entry is free but camping fees apply.
Guratba
(Coronation Hill) A picnic site on the South Alligator River, this is the
site of a former uranium mine. To local Jawoyn Aborigines this area is traditionally
"Sickness Country", suggesting that even in its natural state uranium
proved harmful to human health.
Jim
Jim & Twin Falls (4x4) These two falls are the most advertised in the
Top End and are worth visiting; Access to both falls is off the Kakadu Hwy along
a 4WD only road. The last 10 km to the Jim Jim campsite is slow sand. A further
10 km of 4WD track takes you out to Twin Falls - but first you must cross the
Jim Jim Creek. a guided crossing between white posts is available but check water
level before crossing (Refer to section on creek crossings - markers should not
always be taken as gospel) Allow two hours driving time one way to Jim Jim a further
3/4 hrs to Twin
Falls. Jim Jim Falls cascades over 200m straight off the edge of the escarpment
and are best visited in the early Dry, as soon as the road reopens - as they often
stop flowing later in the season and will certainly look less impressive. A rocky,
one-kilometre trail leads alongside the large pool to the base of the falls. Twin
Falls is a rough ten-kilometre drive from Jim Jim, including the crossing of Jim
Jim Creek. From the car park it's a short walk and then a swim up the monsoon-forested
gorge for another kilometre - an airbed and waterproof containers help here. This
little bit of adventure is rewarded by the sight of Twin Falls cascading into
a pool edged by an idyllic sandy beach, a beautiful and recently very popular
spot to while away the day. The sure-footed can scramble to the top of the falls
via the overgrown gully to the right - a difficult climb capped with a view you
won't forget in a hurry, but please note that fatal accidents have occurred here.
Both falls quickly become inaccessible after the first big rains. During
the dry the rock formations are still worth seeing, but the spouting, raging,
foaming torrent of water that makes the falls such a wonderful sight is often
missing.Open for 4WD access only from June to November, entry is free. Koolpin
Gorge (4x4) A beautiful gorge, but access is limited to keep it in its
pristine wilderness state. The creek flows down several hundred feet. A permit
and entry key must be organised in advance. Open for 4WD access only from May
to November, a deposit for the entry key is required. The key is available from
the Southern Entry Station on the Pine Creek road where you must leave a $50 deposit.
The track to the gorge is a challenging 4WD track, ending just before the actual
gorge which begins 1km upstream and continues deep into the escarpment. You can
camp here or follow the escarpment on foot to the northwest for 3 km to the narrow
chasm of Freezing Gorge which, you'll be pleased to discover, lives up to its
name. Maguk
(Barramundi Gorge) (4x4) Maguk is a small yet spectacular waterfall and
clear plunge pool 2 km walk from the car park through monsoon forest. Considered
to be the best of Kakadu's few swimming holes and well worth the trip time permitting.
Several picturesque picnic areas can be found in this area, as well as other
smaller plunge pools and waterfalls set in monsoonal forest. It is 12 km off
the Kakadu Hwy along a corrugated 4WD track. Driven carefully, robust 2WD cars
can manage the twelve-kilometre corrugated track albeit very slowly.Cost entry
is free. The top of the waterfall and more rock pools can be reached by clambering
up the tree roots to the right of the falls.
Old
Darwin Road The Old Darwin Road (or Jim Jim Road), unsealed, but usually
passable for robust 2WD-cars in dry conditions, is a good alternative to slogging
the full length of the Arnhem Highway to get to Cooinda and on to Jim Jim and
Twin Falls. It starts 12 km east of the Bark Hut Inn on the Arnhem Highway and
joins the Kakadu Highway near Cooinda, 100km further on. |